I don't actually drink a lot of coffee, 8 oz. a day, sometimes more. But it's really GOOD coffee. Good beans, filtered water, entirely non-evasive. Meaning my coffee being good or bad relies solely on my materials and my comprehension of their integrity - versus my capacity as a chemical magician.
This is what matters to me in food, and this is the kind of wine I want to drink. Honest wine over some preconceived notion of what wine should be, the definition of wine would loosen up allowing for a wider scope of Legitimate. How awesome would this be? All the variant flavor experiences possible, things we may never have even considered. I think, or maybe ignorantly hope, this is the next wine frontier. Every Monsanto has its an equal and opposite reaction; hopefully so will wine.
By no means a new topic, it's been a hot topic this summer:
CNN Money. California Wine Gets Back to its Roots.
Jamie Goode's Wine Blog. Ingredient Labeling in Wine.
NYT/Eric Asimov. If Only the Grapes Were the Whole Story.
(I agree, the ending was a little anti-climactic, I thought it might go differently. Here's one for the road:)